From there, sew a line of zigzag stitches close to the stitching line. One of the simplest ways to prevent unraveling and finish seams would be to use … When you have a serger but don’t want to rethread it to match colors! Here’s the thing: at some point in your sewing journey, you’ll start wanting to make the insides of your projects as pretty as the outsides. Sew the seam wrong sides together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. This is a great finish for neck seams on hoodies. Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Standard straight seams, medium length stitching (2.5) are good choices. This is a stitch that I learned about during my research for this post. Seam finishes will be necessary, as linen ravels. With a couple setting changes, you can switch to a rolled hem which can be a good seam finish on fabrics like linen that are fray monsters. Thick, heavy fabrics often do better with other seam finishes, too. Instead of pinking shears, you can also use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade. This is a different kind of seam finish. To use twill tape to finish a neck seam, sew the seam as normal. Above you can see the raw edges caught in the overcast stitch. A seam finish is a method used to secure the raw edges of the fabric and help them look neat while preventing them from raveling. Press the seam towards the neck. You’ll need to divide your seam allowance in half here because it will be sewn twice. So there are 13 different ways you can finish a seam. It’s a nice way to finish soft shell fleeces which can have irritating edges to them. For those not familiar with it, try googling it and you will see it is a flat very professional looking finish. Five Ways to Finish Seams without a Serger It makes a pretty finish on the inside and can add a little pop of contrast that’ll add a unique touch to any garment. An alternative to seam finishes, is to cut the pattern pieces along the selvedge of the fabric. Pinking Shears. For a turned and stitched seam, sew the seam, then press it open. no. Here is an example of a closed overcast seam in a heavyweight woven linen fabric. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. The serger stitch makes a seam with good recovery that’s perfect for knits. Sew the seams wrong sides together. For a bias bound seam, next sew a piece of double folded bias around the edge of the seam. Not to mention your garment will look professional! You can sew it closer to the edge if you don’t want to trim the seam allowance, or you can trim past the zigzag stitching. 1. All images, text, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr. These 2 finishes will get you there. I found … All you do is either press a seam open or to one side. The truth is that there is no one-size fits all seam finish for every fabric. Pinking shears are probably the easiest way to finish your seams and prevent raveling or fraying if you don’t have a… For example, if you’re making linen trousers, the weave of the linen can open up a bit around the seam at the rise, just due to stress on the seam when you sit down. To do a double stitched seam, sew your seam. You only need your regular sewing machine for it, and it’ll work for a variety of fabrics. Stitch the bias 1/4″ from the raw edge. They’re similar to each other, but one uses your regular sewing machine or hand stitches. It seems funny to think of twill tape as a seam finish, but it’s one you’ll see a lot on neck seams. I once saw the coolest denim jacket with exposed seams that were zigzagged on the second pass. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. This next round of seam finishes requires some specialty stitching. These usually work because linen presses really well, which controls the bulk. If seam allowances are exposed (and if very loosely woven fabrics are lined), serged and zigzag finishes are sturdy and quick remedies for raveling. This will anchor the seam allowance open and keep it flat. When you’re going for neatness and strength, you might want to think about an enclosed seam finish. When sewing clothing with natural fibers (such as cotton and linen) I haven’t had a lot of success using pinking shears. Used with a hem in this example, a catch stitch for a seam allowance must be combined with overlocking either with regular serging thread or specialty thread or yarn.I believe it could even add a little panache if zigzag-and-trim is your seam finish of choice. Your email address will not be published. Next, with a pair of pinking shears, trim the seam seam allowance. The raw finish is nice on fabrics that won’t fray like knits. The knife will trim away any excess fabric. Always wash/dry your linen fabric to account for shrinkage before cutting. Weird but true. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen. You can trim away the excess bias. Finishes. A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam … Try out some ones you’ve never attempted and see which ones you like the best! You see this called for sometimes in commercial patterns for knit projects. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. We’re diving deep into one of my favorite topics today: beautiful seam finishes. This technique resembles a French seam, except it can be completed after a … It is very neat,strong and encloses the seam allowence completely. You can use packaged tape for bias bound seams. Plain Seam With A Single Stitch. Linen has a tendency for a bit of “seam slippage” in stress spots. Finished dimensions do not include the drawstring casing. Press open the seam and work the overcast stitches. This is a great finish for heavy fabrics that you aren’t going to line. Fold the fabric wrong sides together and press lightly on the seam. Log in. And don’t try to serge through sequins unless you really love breaking needles. - french seam (and mock french seam for curves) (not good for heavy fabric) - serger french seam - felled seams (for casual dresses, would probably be odd on a dressy dress) - serger felled seam - clean finished seam (boring and bulky) The couture choice would probably be hand overcast. Foldover elastic can work much like a bias bound seam. Cut with pinking blade in rotary for construction. fabric tends not to fray as badly as linen and silk, due to wool’s tendency to felt. studio peeks: shoot prep - megan nielsen design diary, Tutorial : How to sew an Invisible Zipper - megan nielsen design diary, Sewing Tutorial: To An Absolute Beginner from a Relative Novice – Skaldsheim. Mock-French Seams. You can also use French seams, fell seams, mock welt seams, and hemstitching if … While most knits will not ravel, this can be a neat way to clean up the seam allowances. Cutting Instructions. I think there is another seam treatment that works well with linen particularly and it is the felled seam. Ron Collins demonstrates 3 of his posh seam finishes - Hong Kong, flat felled and inside seams -- all of which you can do on your sewing machine. zigzag overlock stitch. After trimming, press the seam again to one side. Pinked Seams. The serger will make a nice clean, professional looking finish on the edge. It’s a good alternative to more time consuming bias bound seams. Now all of your seams will be on the outside of your garment. Choose a 3-thread balanced serger stitch, or zigzag over both layers of seam allowances (if you do not own a serger). If your fabric ravels, could sew two parallel lines of stitching on the edges and trim any fraying. Knot a single length of thread and work stitches that wrap around the edge along the length of a seam. Finish each seam as I go so I don't miss one! They’re quick and won’t require any special machinery or techniques. Here’s how the two fare against each other in rotary cutter vs. scissors. All you do is either press a seam... Zigzag finish. The seams still fray when they go through the wash. *. It’s definitely has a specific look to it, but don’t knock it til you try it! This is a sure way to prevent the fabric from fraying, but there’s only so much selvedge on each yardage cut, so this technique is best for small segments. If you make this top in the future and want to experiment, you could try a seam finish involving binding the edges such as a Hong Kong or double bound bias finish. All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. The last seam finish I am going to talk about is the flat felled seam. Do not use any content from this site without permission and consent. Sew the seam as normal, then press it open. Double-stitched seam. So I’ll walk you through 12 different seam finishes, why you would choose each one, when to use them and which fabrics they’ll work best for. You can use special feet like a blind hem foot to help you sew topstitched seams more accurately. The pinking shears will make a dead easy bulk free finish. These are really similar finishes. The trick is to accurately use the same measurements on the entire seam finish or mark the seam line before you sew the seam finish so you still maintain accurate lines. A. It’s because twill tape does a great job keeping neck edges from warping out of shape. When possible, I flat-fell instead of french seam. That's the seam most store bought men's shirts are sewn with. Stitch close to the fold with a straight stitch or a 3 step zigzag. If your linen is exceptionally light you could try a French seam, … This is the one seam finish that’s *almost* all-purpose. Sewing can be enjoyable and relaxing unless your sewing projects unravel after you finish! Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. You can also overcast a seam allowance by hand. 02 of 06. Use cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. For a Hong Kong finish, cut a 1-1.5″ strip of bias from a lightweight fabric. Required fields are marked *, By using this form you agree with the storage and handling of your data by this website. If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. Hong Kong finishes work best with bias cut from lightweight silks and cottons. I do what some people call a faux flat felled seam … Seam Finish: Bulk adds up with linen cotton blend. The seam allowance is folded back and top stitched down. This adds a minimal bulk to the seam edge. Machine overcast feet have a little guide to keep you stitching right on the edge of your seam allowance. Stitch again with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Turn the seam allowances under and press. Double stitched seam. HOW: This is a really simple seam finish. It doesn’t get much easier than this one. After sewing your 1/4" seam and before pressing, sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowances. You can see how similar it looks to a serged edge. I’m a wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a passion for DIY. I would use a flat-felled seam, French seam or false French seam. Simple is simple, and these 4 seam finishes are just that. A catch stitch does take time. Here’s how to topstitch and elevate all of your sewing now. If you’re concerned about this happening, you might want to consider flat felled seams in those spots. For a simple topstitched seam allowance, press open your seam allowance or press it to one side. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. It’s something that you’ll see on ready-to-wear occasionally on more casual garments. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. If you want to pick the best seam finish for a fabric, I have two quick thoughts. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″. Sweater knits can get warped out of shape with a serger, and the stitching can be too bulky on some lighter weight fabrics. Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. Trim the seam allowance on the under layer. I say almost because there are some fabrics that do not do well with a serger. You will need a rotary cutter, cutting mat and straight ruler for this technique You can use a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag. A Zigzag finish is a great multipurpose seam finish. French Seam Finish. Press the seam to one side. Next wrap the bias around the edge to the wrong side of the seam. Wrap the upper seam allowance around the trimmed edge and press again. Small bag (finished dimensions: 6"x6"): Cut a rectangle of linen … This can be a nice minimal finish on delicate fabrics. I also like hand overcast finishes on heavier fabrics. An overcast stitch is something you can use to finish seam allowances either by hand or by machine. It’s a fun finish. As you go along the seam, pick up 1 thread of the garment fabric every 1/2″ or so. This will keep the edges of the seam allowances clean and fray free. This is done by sewing over the raw edges, using certain stitches or enclosing them in some sort of binding. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … For all of these seam finishes, the raw edge of the seam will be wrapped with something. Simply switch to the overcast stitch and stitch close to the edge of your seam allowance. This is why I tend to stick with other seam finishing methods. Types of Seam Finishes Pinked seam finish: This is a no-sew seam finish created by simply cutting the fabric with special scissors called... Clean finish: This is a simple straight stitch. What I do with linen I buy: Finish raw edges on piece, then wash and dry three times on hottest settings. Wrap the elastic around the raw edge of the seam along the fold. Sometimes you want your seam finish to be noticeable on the outside. I particularly like this for ponte knits. For both finishes, sew the seams and press them open. It’s a simple way to do a machine finish. Even a simple clean seam finish can tame what seems like uncontrollable fraying fabric. With knits, you can get away with using the serger to sew the seam and finish the edge at the same time. Pinking shears are a common tool that can be used to finish seams. It shouldn’t be your first sewing goal, but eventually dreams of bias bound seams will invade your thoughts. These are the seam finishes that won’t require much extra work on your part. Take care to keep your stitching an even distance away from the seam. Episode 110: Seam Finishes; Episode 27: Fabrics 101 Blackbird Fabrics Linen products mentioned: Most popular Blackbird Fabrics fabric – Viscose Linen Noil Caroline’s favourite – Viscose Linen Slub; Blackbird Fabric’s Washed Linen; Blackbird Fabric’s Mid-Weight Linen; Lightweight linen (up to 5oz) is great for cooler summer garments! This is a great enclosed seam finish for lightweight fabrics like silk and delicate cottons. You’ll see these on jeans and men’s shirts. Let’s sew something creative together! FRENCH SEAM. Look below to see the outside of the fabric with the overcast seam finish. That the tape keeps irritating seams away from your neck is bonus. The Hong Kong finish is slightly less bulky since there’s one less layer of fabric. Stitch through all layers close to the edge of the tape. From the right side, stitch on either side of the seam. You need a special foot to do a real flat felled seam. Stitch in the ditch from the right side to catch the underlayer of bias. As linen can be bulky, you would want to use a very light fabric for the bias strips. Sew your seams wrong sides together. If you did not use a larger seam allowance, I strongly suggest you finish all linen seams with a zigzag stitch to guard against unraveling. This seam is a variant of the plain seam but it is made with only a … For bottomweight linens, use a 90/14 needle. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. Rayon seam binding is also popular. The stitching will keep the seam allowances flat and neat on the inside. Elizabeth Made This is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, 13 seam finishes to make your garment insides sing. Next press the seam to one side. Whether you go simple or something a little fussier, in the end there’s a lot of different choices to explore. Not only does this get all the shrink out, but even the wrinkles will be softer. For each side of seam allowance, turn under 1/4” or less and press. The zigzagging will cut down on fraying without adding too much bulk. Don’t sew to the garment). From here, press the seams to one side and stitch through both layers. Stitch close to the pressed edge. You can use a straight stitch or a zigzag depending on the kind look you’re going for. You can see how similar they look. Men’s shirts: on the sleeve seams for extra strength, Denim: a classic finish for denim for keeping it strong and keeping it from fraying. Also inevitable is the day you’ll come across a fabric that won’t play nice with a serger. Because this is a visible seam finish, wonky, wandering stitching is going to be obvious. 2. With your machine, you’ll have to switch feet. Hems can be done by machine topstitching, rolled hems (in the finer weights of linen), or by hand. Trim away the excess seam allowance past the second row of stitching. Nothing crazy here! To serge with most fabrics, sew the seam, then run it through the serger. If you have grandmothers who sewed, you’ve probably seen this finish. 6 Consider finishing linen seams. We’ll start with the easy ones and build up from there. Seams can also be bound (but watch out for bulk), and a Hong Kong finish can be beautiful— one dressmaker I know uses bias-cut strips of Ambiance lining for this. From there, lay the tape over the seam. Your email address will not be published. Try serging or zig-zagging raw edges and pressing seams open. Next, sew a row of stitching close to the first. Seam allowance is 5/8" using French seams. When to use bias bound seams or Hong Kong finish. A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding. To make this seam finish, first sew a seam with your regular seam allowance. 4 Simple seam finishes Pinked seams. So if you’re sewing with a traditional 5/8″ seam allowance, the sew the first pass at 3/8″, and 1/4″ after trimming. Of your data by this website warped out of shape with a 3/8″ seam allowance in half here because will. Edge along the seam most store bought men 's shirts are sewn with most will... Allowances ( if you ’ re diving deep into one of my favorite topics today: beautiful seam that! 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If you want to consider flat felled seam 3/8″ seam allowance, press seams! ’ ll walk away brainstorming different options for your next project best seam finish bulk!